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Posted November 11, 2006
A Matter of Taste - The Salt of the Earth and of the Sea
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A Matter of Taste
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Salt is getting a lot of attention these days and you will see all sorts of “specialty” salts in beautiful packages with fancy prices in the grocery store and specialty food shops. In its most basic form salt is sodium chloride, NaCl. Originally all salt comes from sea water. Sometimes sea water is trapped in rock formations and over time all the water evaporates. This type of salt is mined like any mineral or ore. Along the world’s coasts, sea water is collected and dried I large flat “pans” using technology that has not changed for centuries.
One of the distinguishing differences between varieties of salt is the texture. Pour some kitchen salt out in your hand and there are the familiar tiny granules. This salt has been processed to add potassium iodide to prevent goiter and an anti-caking agent to keep it free-flowing even in humid climates. One worldwide hamburger chain processes their salt to a much finer texture to insure that it sticks better to food; check it out the next time you eat under the “golden arches”.
Flake salt is made from the crystals that form on the top of a layer of concentrating brine; they are skimmed off and dried. You can see and feel the difference in the size of the crystals and when sprinkled on food they do not dissolve immediately. They add sparkle, a bit of crunch and a burst of flavor when used to “finish” a dish; hence the name “finishing salt.” These salts generally command a high price. Don’t use them to season dishes during cooking where the texture goes unnoticed.
Some specialty salts come with a hint or a burst of color. Mineral impurities, usually some form of iron oxide, are trapped in the salt crystals, imparting colors from pale gray to deep rust red. The “apricot” salt from the Murray River in Australia picks up a small amount of iron oxide from the clay indentations in which it is evaporated and “alaea” from Hawaii is a rich reddish color for the same reason. The minerals add color but the flavor is the same as any salt.
By drying flaky salt crystals over smoky fires new flavors are being added to salt and the results are worth trying. The smoke of Pacific Red Alder adds a dark grey color and rich smokiness to salt, while kaffir lime leaves and coconut husks give basic sea salt the flavor of southeast Asia. In France, old oak wine barrels are smoked to impart a hint of wine flavor.
If salt is a part of your diet, explore some of the new specialty salts with a tasting party. Serve fresh, thinly-sliced French bread lightly spread with unsalted butter. Put several salts in open dishes with small spoons and allow your guests to serve themselves. Savor the textures and flavors with a glass of wine. Enjoy!
A wide variety of specialty salts are available from Burrows Bay Herbs and Spices in simple packages at simple prices. Find them on our Herbs & Spices page.
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